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ebike:ebikev1 [2019/09/09 09:12] f4ija created |
ebike:ebikev1 [2019/09/09 09:56] (current) f4ija |
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For that, I decided to make my own battery, and to solder it with a home made point solder unit, based on an Arduino program and a salvaged transformer of a microwave oven. | For that, I decided to make my own battery, and to solder it with a home made point solder unit, based on an Arduino program and a salvaged transformer of a microwave oven. | ||
- | ==== Battery ==== | + | ===== Battery ===== |
+ | The battery is made from standard 18650 cells (like in the Tesla car for example). You can buy online. I was able in 2017 to buy them about 1.25€ each, now it's more expensive. | ||
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+ | The battery I've used is the ICR18650-26F, with a capacity of 2600mah nominal. In reality, the capacity is a little more, at about 2900mah. | ||
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+ | The size of the battery is 13S12P, so 13 elements in serie (48.1V nominal) and 12 elements in parallel (31200 mah nominal). | ||
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+ | I needed to buy some nickel straps to solder with my solder unit. More info on [[other:soldering|DIY point soldering unit]] | ||
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+ | All the elements on a table : | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171013_132153.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | During soldering : | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171013_205206.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171013_211552.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | The battery pack once soldered : | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171014_002108.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | You don't have to forget about adding a BMS (Battery Management System) to the battery pack, to preserve the battery life (you'll find enough informations on the Internet about why BMS are important). | ||
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+ | ===== Attaching the battery to the frame ===== | ||
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+ | During the tests, I've just attached the battery pack with black tape. It's Mad Max style but it's OK for the tests ! | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171015_134223.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | On this early first version, I've adapted a brushed DC motor of 2kW to the wheel with 3D printing parts. But that was not a good idea. The motor was quite cheap, and that was difficult to put the chain in the right place. | ||
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+ | Also, After about 200km, I've burned out the motor because of too much current for a long period... | ||
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+ | So, after that, I've bought a wheel with a brushless motor inside, and the result is much more better : | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171119_194858.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | It's well integrated now. | ||
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+ | ===== Battery enclosure ===== | ||
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+ | After the tests, I've 3D printed the battery enclosure in ABS on a printer I've designed in my company and added 2 aluminium plates to close it. | ||
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+ | The battery is well integrated to the frame and it's working like a charm. | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171113_174723.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | {{ :ebike:img_20171119_194858.jpg?600 |}} | ||
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+ | ===== Results and tests ===== | ||
+ | As I've said, the brushed DC motor wasn't a good idea and burned out quite quickly. | ||
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+ | After the installation of the brushless wheel, the results are very good. | ||
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+ | The max speed I was able to reach is about 62-63 km/h on flat roads. | ||
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+ | The range is about 200km with pedal assist set to 1 (minimal consumption, you need to pedal but without sweating you can reach 25-27 km/h. | ||
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+ | If you go without pedal assist (just with throttle, like a bike and going beetween 55-60 km/h, the range is reduced to about 60km (1 hour in fact). | ||
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+ | So, very good project, the global cost was about 700€, without the bike I already had. | ||